In the Spotlight

Natural Wines of Germany

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Sweet Riesling was never the whole story

A younger generation is rewriting German wine from the ground up, farming organically and leaving the cellar alone. Over the past year we have followed it from Kitzingen in Franconia to the hills of Rheinhessen and the steep slate of the Mosel. Now we're truly getting excited.

Two men sitting in the back of a van, holding wine glasses.
01

Kitzingen, Franconia

We spent time with Michael Völker at 2Naturkinder, where the vineyard is treated as habitat first. Bat boxes go up between the rows, their guano returns to the soil, and a share of every bottle goes to conservation. Nothing is filtered and no sulphur is added.

02

In the cellar

The cellar is quiet and unforced. Spontaneous ferments, long ageing, and a light hand throughout. The wines are left to find their own shape rather than pushed towards a house style, which is why no two bottles are quite the same.

03

At the table

Tasting from tank to freshly bottled wine, the through-line is clarity and energy rather than weight. It is the instinct we look for wherever we travel, and the reason these German growers now sit at the centre of what we are pouring.

01

Kitzingen, Franconia

We spent time with Michael Völker at 2Naturkinder, where the vineyard is treated as habitat first. Bat boxes go up between the rows, their guano returns to the soil, and a share of every bottle goes to conservation. Nothing is filtered and no sulphur is added.

02

In the cellar

The cellar is quiet and unforced. Spontaneous ferments, long ageing, and a light hand throughout. The wines are left to find their own shape rather than pushed towards a house style, which is why no two bottles are quite the same.

03

At the table

Tasting from tank to freshly bottled wine, the through-line is clarity and energy rather than weight. It is the instinct we look for wherever we travel, and the reason these German growers now sit at the centre of what we are pouring.

Two men sitting in the back of a van, holding wine glasses.

Racine Wines Co.

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